In many ways, Poland is one of the success stories of the new Europe, transforming itself from a one-party state to a parliamentary democracy in a remarkably short period of time. More than a decade of non-communist governments has wrought profound changes on the country, unleashing entrepreneurial energies and widening cultural horizons in a way that pre-1989 generations would have scarcely thought possible. Gleaming corporate skyscrapers have taken root in Warsaw, and private shops and cafés have established themselves in even the most provincial of rural towns. The country has a radically different look about it, having exchanged the greyish tinge of a state-regulated society for the anything-goes attitude of private enterprise - and all the billboards and window displays that go with it. Encounters with the people are at the core of any experience of the country. On trains and buses, on the streets or in the village bar, you'll never be stuck for opportunities for contact: Polish hospitality is legendary, and there's a natural progression from a chance meeting to an introduction to the extended family. Even the most casual visitor might be served a prodigious meal at any hour of the day, usually with a bottle or two of local vodka brought out from the freezer.
Transportation in Poland
By Car: Car access will save you a lot of time in exploring the country, however traffic is heavy on Poland's main roads. There's a dearth of multi-lane highways on the trunk routes, ensuring that you'll spend much of your time trailing behind a stream of slow-moving cars and lorries. Poland's rural back roads are quiet and hassle-free by comparison, and present the perfect terrain for unhurried touring.
By Bus: If you're concentrating on journeys between major cities, then the trains are faster and more numerous. As soon as you start visiting provincial towns and villages however, buses are likely to be your best bet. The PKS network is extraordinarily comprehensive, and buses provide an excellent means of getting around in those areas not well served by rail.
By Rail: Trams are the basis of the public transport system in nearly all Polish cities.
Polish State Railways (PKP) is a reasonably efficient organization, though its services, particularly on rural routes, have been heavily cut since the fall of communism and continue to be reduced at frequent intervals. Intercity or express services are the ones to go for if you're travelling long distances, as they stop at the main cities only.
By Ferry: Ferries connect Poland with Sweden and Denmark. Services are run by Stena Line and Polferries.
By Air: Most major Polish cities have airports with connecting services with the Frederic Chopin International Airport in Warsaw. Most of European major airlines fly to Poland. Poland has its own national carriers - LOT Polish Airlines and low cost airline Centralwings. Several other low cost airlines fly to Poland including EasyJet, Germanwings and Ryanair.
Warsaw, the capital, was completely destroyed during World War II, but the Old Town has been completely rebuilt. The reconstructed Royal Castle is well worth seeing. The Lazienki Palace is set in a lovely park with an open-air Greek theatre and a monument to Chopin. Krakow, Poland’s second city, still retains its charming medieval air, having largely escaped destruction during the War. In the centre is the Cloth Hall built in the 14th century. Opposite is St Mary’s Church, famous for its wooden altar carved by Wit Stwosz. Gdansk, formerly known as Danzig, was also destroyed in World War II, but has also been restored to its former beauty. Sights include the Town Hall, the 17th-century Golden Gate and the largest Gothic church in Poland. Popular dishes include zrazy zawijane (mushroom-stuffed beefsteak rolls in sour cream) served with boiled kasza (buckwheat) and pigs’ knuckles. Poland has strong theatrical and musical traditions. Warsaw and the main cities have theatres and opera companies that put on a whole range of musical and cultural programmes for both locals and visitors.
Main Attractions
Rynek Glówny, Kraków
A spectacular medieval market square, packed with fine architecture, in a country that's famous for them. Settle down in one of the numerous pavement cafés and soak up the atmosphere.
Warsaw Royal Castle
Destroyed by the Nazis in WWII, a remarkable reconstruction, carried out in the 1970s, with only a few parts of the interior salvaged from the ruins.
Vodka
The essential accompaniment to any social occasion. It has to be drunk neat and downed in one go if you want to do things properly.
Wawel, Kraków
One of the most striking royal residences in Europe and a potent source of national and spiritual pride, Wawel is to Poles what Westminster Abbey, the Tower of London, Windsor Castle and Canterbury Cathedral are to the British - only all rolled into one.
Folk Festivals
July and August are the busiest months in Poland's considerable calendar of traditional festivals. The International Festival of Highland Folklore in Zakopane is the main event to aim for, although there are numerous other regional events worth considering.
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